JEWELRY MAKING - HOW IT WORKS
At SOVATS, every piece of jewelry is designed and handcrafted in-house to maintain control over our manufacturer process.
We feel better knowing our products are made ethical and responsible.
Almost all jewelry ideas begins with a sketch of piece of jewelry. Although computer programs exist to standardize this process, we prefer pencils.
Designs are often drawn from different perspectives since almost all jewelry is three-dimensional in concept.
The sketched design is carved into wax. This model must be perfect and flawless in every detail, since the final piece will only be as good as the model. So the master maker needs to make sure that the original wax model is made to perfection.
The original wax model is encased in plaster-like investment, which is specially created for jewelry making. After the investment sets, the encased wax model is burned away in an oven, leaving a jewelry shaped void in the hardened investment. That space is filled with silver, forming a duplicate of the original wax design.
The silver master model is then packed into a fat sandwich of special mold rubber and squeezed tight under high heat and pressure until it forms a solid block. The rubber forms itself around the master model, creating a perfect three-dimensional impression of the piece of jewelry. The rubber is cut in half to remove the silver master. Then the rubber is put back together and hot wax is injected through a hole in the rubber to fill the ring-shaped space inside, forming a wax reproduction of the master model.
To finally turn wax into gold, a number of wax models, usually 10 or 20 are placed on a large branching wax tree. When the tree is complete, the whole wax structure is placed in a flask.
A special liquid plaster called investment is mixed and poured over the tree to encase it all in plaster. A vacuum is used to remove any air bubbles from the liquid investment. Like the single mold of the original model, after the investment hardens, the wax is burned out, leaving a branching tree hole to be filled with molten metal.
Grains of gold or silver and alloy (a mixture of other metals) is added to it and melted. When the metal has the correct temperature at around 950°C, it's poured into the hardened plaster mold with the tree impression. After the gold hardens the mold is cracked and the tree is removed from investment.
At this point the jeweler refines the main structure of your ring, necklace or other piece. The jeweler files down the casting skin to reveal the metal underneath.
Gem setter are the skilled craftsmen who firmly setting gems in metal.
In the final stage, a polisher works to make sure the metal is polished to perfection so it’s as shiny as possible.
Finally, the jewelry is inspected and imperfection are corrected.
Now you know the basic jewelry manufacturing process that gives you a better understanding of the many steps to a final piece of jewelry